Tamales

Method

1. simmer120 min
   bare simmer, partly covered
   pork + onion + garlic + bay leaf + water, until the meat shreds against a fork. Keep every drop of the liquid — that broth is what hydrates the masa, and water in its place makes a tamal that tastes of nothing. Shred the pork, strain and reserve the broth.
2. toast3 min
   dry pan, medium
   guajillo + ancho chilies, pressing flat for 20-30 seconds a side until they puff and smell sweet. Past that they turn bitter and no amount of salt takes it back.
3. infuse20 min
   hot broth, off heat
   toasted chilies submerged in 1 cup of the hot pork broth until fully pliable, then blend with cumin + oregano + 1 tsp salt to a smooth paste = chile sauce. Toss two thirds through the shredded pork = filling; keep the rest for the masa.
4. rest40 min
   very hot water, weighted down
   corn husks submerged until leathery and flexible. Dry husks split when rolled and the masa leaks into the steamer; a plate on top keeps them under the water.
5. whisk7 min
   room temperature lard, high speed
   lard + baking powder + 1 tsp salt, beaten until white, glossy and visibly doubled. This is the whole texture of the dish: you are whipping air into fat so the masa steams into something cakey. Cold lard will not take air, and unwhipped lard gives a dense, pasty tamal.
6. mix6 min
   low, adding broth gradually
   whipped lard + masa harina + reserved chile sauce + about 1.5 cups warm pork broth, added in splashes until it spreads like thick frosting. Test it by dropping a marble of masa into cold water — if it floats, enough air is in; if it sinks, beat longer.
7. prep25 min
   assembly
   each husk + 3 tbsp masa spread in a rectangle over the wide half, leaving a 1-inch border and the tapered end bare + 2 tbsp filling down the center. Fold one long side over so masa meets masa and encloses the filling, roll, then fold the narrow tail up. Leave the top open — the masa expands as it steams and a tightly sealed parcel bursts.
8. steam90 min
   steady steam, water below the rack, lid on
   tamales stood open-end up in the steamer, packed snug so they hold each other upright. Water must never reach them — boiled tamales absorb liquid and turn to mush. Top up the pot with boiling water as it drops; a steamer that runs dry scorches the husks in minutes.
9. rest15 min
   off heat, lid on
   the tamales in the pot. Straight off the steam the masa is still loose and glues itself to the husk; fifteen minutes of carryover sets it so the husk peels away clean.