Tamagoyaki

Method

1. whisk3 min
   cold, cutting motion
   eggs + dashi + mirin + sake + soy sauce + sugar + salt, dragging chopsticks back and forth through the whites rather than beating in circles — air is the enemy here, since every bubble becomes a hole that stops one layer from welding to the next
2. prep2 min
   medium-low, rectangular pan
   pass the mixture through a sieve to catch the chalazae and any unbroken white, then oil the pan with a folded paper towel; a drop of egg should hiss faintly and set in about three seconds — if it browns, the pan is too hot and the layers will taste of scorched sugar and refuse to stick
3. saute2 min
   medium-low
   pour a thin film, about a fifth of the egg, tilting to cover; pop any bubbles with the chopstick tips and roll the sheet away from you the moment the surface is set at the edges but still wet and glossy on top — that tacky surface is the only glue in the dish
4. fold8 min
   medium-low, re-oiling each time
   slide the log back to the near edge, wipe oil across the bare pan, pour the next film and lift the log so raw egg runs underneath it — the new layer must bond to the log's underside or the finished roll will unravel at the cut; repeat until the egg is gone, four or five layers in all
5. rest4 min
   wrapped, off heat
   turn the log onto a bamboo mat or a doubled sheet of paper, press it square and let it sit — carryover heat finishes the custardy centre and the set protein firms enough to slice without smearing
6. slice1 min
   sharp blade
   cut crosswise into thick pieces so the spiral shows, and serve warm or at room temperature with drained grated daikon and a few drops of soy sauce