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flour + half the salt + cold butter rubbed only until pea-size pieces remain, then cold water added just until the dough holds

Mix the flour with half the salt, cut in the cold butter until visible pieces remain, then add the cold water only until the dough comes together. Those intact fat pieces melt in the oven and create separation in the pastry; working the dough smooth now develops gluten and smears the fat, which makes a tougher, less flaky shell.