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soaked beans, 6 cups water, bay leaves; barely bubbling, lid ajar, UNSALTED

beans + water + bay leaves (+ ham hock) simmered gently until the skins are tender and a bean crushes easily against the roof of the mouth. Top up with hot water so they stay just covered. Hold the salt back until they are soft: salt slows the softening of the skins, so a pot salted from the start stays firm at the surface long after the interiors have gone floury. Never let it boil — agitation breaks the skins and clouds the liquor you are going to use as sauce